Deck Staining and Painting in Phoenix: Six Questions Answered

Yes. Moisture is not the main threat in the desert; ultraviolet light is. Unprotected wood dries out, turns gray, cracks and splinters. A finish with UV protection slows all of that.

Paint sits on the surface as a film. It hides flaws and offers any color, but it peels as the wood expands and contracts, and peeling paint has to be stripped before you can recoat.

Stain soaks in. It wears away gradually instead of peeling, so recoating is a clean and a fresh coat. For most decks here, a good solid or semi-transparent stain is the easier finish to live with. Paint makes sense mainly on older decks with a lot to hide.

Plan on every two to three years for the deck floor and three to five for railings, which get less wear. South- and west-facing decks in full sun need attention sooner. When water stops beading and the color looks tired, it is time.

Not if you want it to last. Stain cannot soak through paint, and paint does not bond well to an old stain. Changing from one to the other means stripping back to bare wood first.

• Clean: A deck cleaner removes dirt and old loose finish. Pressure washers work, but use a wide tip and keep it moving or you will scar the wood.
• Strip: Only if the old finish is failing.
• Brighten: Restores the wood's color and opens it up to take stain evenly.
• Sand: A light pass to remove raised fibers and rough spots.
• Dry: Give it two or three dry days before coating.

Preparation is most of the job. A good finish on poor prep fails early.

Late fall and early spring. Finishes need moderate temperatures to cure, and a surface that is too hot makes stain flash dry before it soaks in. Avoid midsummer, and avoid days with a dust storm in the forecast.